The secret paradise La Graciosa

Where on earth is that??

La Graciosa is the smallest inhabited Canary Island and lies approximately 2 kilometres off the northern coast of Lanzarote and covers an area of 27 km².

A map of La Graciosa and the tracks that bisect it.

The Canary Islands are widely recognized as the ideal getaway destination for those longing to escape the burdens and stress of everyday life. While the Islands of Lanzarote, Tenerife, Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria are instantly recognized, the majority of travel enthusiasts and holidaymakers are unaware of a hidden gem only a stone’s throw away.

The serene haven of La Graciosa is one of the few places in Europe there are still no tarmac roads as the island is dissected by a series of sandy paths and tracks. To this day the island has remained unspoilt, concealed in the shadows of it’s more popular sister islands and has, thankfully, not yet fallen victim to the scourge mass tourism.

It is part of the Parque Natural del Archipielago Chinijo, a reserve of the Biosphere and Marine Reserve of which protects it's natural, underdeveloped beauty.

Desert: There are no tarmac roads on the island, only sandy tracks.

Before I recount my experience of visiting the island here is a bit of background. The island of La Graciosa is home to a population of around 500 residents and was unhibated until nearly the 19^th century due to the presence of marauding pirates. The main town is Caleta del Sebo, but there is another residential area, further up the coast called Pedro Barba.  It is rumoured that many of these islanders have never set foot off the island of La Graciosa, they survive primarily on their fishing industry and secondly their tourism industry.

Caleta Del Sebo, the port town of La Graciosa

 Many of the children stay at residencies on Lanzarote during the week to attend school and the island has a rota for a doctor from Lanzarote to stay a month at a time. Any urgent medical cases are airlifted to hospital or met off the ferry by an ambulance. Due to the fact there are no tarmac roads, they only way to traverse the island is by 4x4 vehicles or bicycyle.

The island also boasts a rich literary history. Treasure Island, the popular children’s book written by Robert Louis Stevenson, is said to be based on an incident that took place in the 1760s on La Graciosa.

During the 18th Century, many ships and trading vessels bound for the West Indies would pass through the Rio Straits, which run between Lanzarote and Graciosa. On one occasion, a British ship dropped anchor there, laden with spoils from a battle at sea.

Not realising that a pirate galleon had trailed them, the sailors managed to reach land and bury their treasure before the buccaneers stormed ashore. However, the British crew was hopelessly outnumbered. They were soon captured and tortured by the pirates in order to force them to reveal the whereabouts of their hoard. But they stayed tight lipped and died without revealing their secret.

Unbeknown to the pirates though a cabin boy managed to escape, making his way over to Lanzarote, from where he managed to board a ship to England. He only revealed the secret location of the buried treasure on his deathbed. To this day some people still believe the treasure is buried beneath the rugged landscape of La Graciosa.

Enough about the past though, it’s time to reveal what the island itself has to offer.

La Graciosa is a haven for those who like to explore. You can wander the island and find new spots everyday, often meeting very few people on the way.

It is literally the perfect destination for people who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the “real” world, a place to relax and appreciate the nature surrounding you with its beautiful mountains, incredible beaches, and its crystal blue waters.

The island is accessible via a daily ferry service that departs from Orzóla. Once there, ensure you have all you need for your day on you as once you leave the boundaries of the Caleta Del Sebo there are no facilities or services.

 In terms of which direction to take you have a number of options. You either walk to the left and enjoy the beaches at Playa Francesa or Playa de La Cocina and Montaña Amarilla or hire a bike from and head for Playa de Las Conchas, through the centre of the island and head on to Pedro Barba on your way back.

Alternatively you can try persuading one of the local 4x4 drivers to drop you at the far side of the island and either come back for you or walk back for your ferry.

I opted for a bike and travelled the aforementioned route through the middle of the island towards Playa de la Conchas on the north-west coast before following the route around to Pedro Barba and back down to Caleta Del Sebo.

Paradise: The amazing Playa de las Conchas.

The experience was nothing short of breathtaking, cycling through the sandy, dusty tracks of Caleta Del Sebo, it felt like I had been transported back in time, there was no traffic, no pollution no anything, just a small number of buildings and local residents going about their daily lives. It was like a snapshot of history.

Pedro Barba, the smaller residential area.

Once out of Caleta Del Sebo all you have for company are the eagles who fly ominously low as you pray you don’t fall victim to a puncture. Navigating the sandy, rugged terrain it felt as if I was not on the same planet anymore, such is the contrast between La Graciosa and anywhere else I have ever experienced. The feeling you get from the realization that you may be the only person within a certain radius cycling around a desert-like island is somewhat surreal. It triggers a surge in happiness and is almost represents a release from the clutches of normal society and the real world.

An aerial view of the island from Lanzarote.

 The most apt comparison I can think of that resembles La Graciosa stems from the hit book and movie “The Beach” that see’s Leanardo Di Caprio and two fellow backpackers embark on an adventure in search of a mysterious island community off the coast of Thailand, severed from the real world.

It truly is an amazing place and I hope it remains the way it currently is for a long time to come.